"Leghorn," from Enyclopaedia Britannica (1797), II
{775} LEGHORN, anciently called
Liburnus Portus but by the modern Italians Livorno,
a handsome town of Italy, in
the duchy of Tuscany, and a free port, about 30 miles south west
from Florence, in the territory of Pisa. The only defect of the
harbour is its being too shallow for large ships. Cosmo I. had
this town in exchange for Sarzana, from the Genoese; and it is
the only sea-port in the duchy. It was then but a mean unhealthy
place; but is now very handsome, and well-built, with broad,
straight, parallel streets. It is also well fortified; but wants
good water, which must be brought from Pisa, 14 miles distant.
It is about 2 miles in circuit, and the general form of it is
square. Part of it has the convenience of canals; one of which
is 5 miles in length, and, joining the Arno, merchandise and
passengers are thus conveyed to Pisa. The port, consisting of
two havens, one for the duke's galleys, and the other for
merchant ships, is surrounded with a double mole, above a mile
and a half in length, and defended, together with the town, by a
good citadel and 12 forts. Roman Catholics, Jews, Greeks,
Armenians, Mahometans, and even the English factory, are
indulged in the public exercise of their religion; but other
Protestants must be satisfied with the private. The trade
carried on here is very great, and most of it passes through the
hands of the Jews. Though only two piastres, or scudi, are paid
for every bale, {776} great or small, imported or exported, yet
the duties on all provisions and commodities brought from the
continent to the town are very heavy. The number of the
inhabitants is said to be about 45,000; and one third of these
are Jews, who live in a particular quarter, but without any mark
of distinction, and have a fine synagogue. They have engrossed
the coral manufactory, have a considerable trade, and possess
the chief riches of the place. The garrison consists of 2000
men. The walks on the ramparts are very agreeable. There is good
anchorage in the road; but ships riding there are much exposed
to the weather and the Barbary corsairs. The number of English
families in Leghorn are about 36; they are much favoured by the
government, and carry on a good trade. The power of the
inquisition is limited to ecclesiastical matters and Roman
Catholics. There are a great many Turkish slaves here, brought
in by the duke's galleys, who are often sent out on a cruize
against the corsairs of Barbary. The lighthouse stands on a rock
in the sea; near which is the Lazaretto, where quarantine is
performed. Another source, from which the duke draws a great
revenue, is the monopoly of brandy, tobacco, and salt; but that,
with the heavy duties, makes provisions dear. The Turks, who are
not slaves, live in a particular quarter, near that of the Jews.
The common prostitutes also have a particular place assigned to
them, out of which they must not be seen, without leave from the
commissary. The number of the rowers in the galleys, whether
Turkish slaves, criminals, or volunteers, are about 2000. In the
area before the darsena or inner harbour, is a fine statue of
Duke Ferdinand, with four Turkish slaves, in bronze, chained to
the pedestal. The ducal palace is one of the finest structures
in the town, and the ordinary residence of the governor. Leghorn
is the see of a bishop, and has a noble cathedral; but the other
churches are not remarkable. E. Long. 11.0. N. Lat. 43.30.